Tuesday, November 25, 2014

Jasmin Reve by Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger c2013

Jasmin Reve by Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger: launched in 2013. Created by Jean-Claude Gigodot.  As one can tell from the name, Jasmine is the star of this fragrance.


And brides as delicate and fair 
As the white jasmine flowers they wear 
Hath Yemen in her blissful clime 
-T. Moore 
Jasmine is highly prized all over the world and is one of the most costly perfume ingredients. It has been reported that more than five million blossoms must be gathered to produce one kilo of what is known as "pure jasmine absolute". As a result, much of the jasmine used in perfume is a chemical approximation and is present in about 83% of women's fragrances and 33% of men's.

Jasmine oil is often used in aromatherapy as a natural remedy for stress, anxiety, depression, fatigue, menstrual cramps and menopausal symptoms. It is also said to act as an aphrodisiac.

Then how serene when in your favourite room 
Gales from your jasmines soothe the evening gloom 
-Crabbe
 Ancient Greeks and Egyptians knew the divine power of the jasmine and used it in not only perfumes, but as offerings to the gods. The Pharaonic Egyptians painted flowers on the walls of their palaces, temples and tombs. These paintings show chrysanthemums, cornflowers, roses, irises, jasmine, narcissi, vines, and poppies, with papyrus and lotus.

The intense fragrant essence of the jasmine is recalled in the origin of its name which derives from the Persian word "yasmin" which means "a gift from God."

In early days it was known in English as Gethsamine, Gelsemine, Jesemin and Jasme. It is also the Jasmin as well as Kajan and Zambach of the Arabians.
Here jasmines spread the silver flower 
To deck the wall or weave the bower 
-Cotton 

So what does Jasmin Reve smell like? It is classified as a Floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: jasmine
  • Middle notes: rose
  • Base notes: musk, sandalwood and vanilla


I received a sample directly from Au Pays de la Fleur d'Oranger and dabbed some drops on the back of my hand. Jasmin Reve means Jasmine Dream in French and this is exactly what it is. At first sniff, a dreamy waft of plush, narcotic jasmine greets my nose. There is a distinctive fresh bloom effect about the jasmine that I find very appealing. A trace of sweetened spice weaves its web as the fragrance dries down. Now I can smell the soft sandalwood mingling with the creamy vanilla. A vanilla that is not cloyingly sweet. The musk is as soft as gossamer without being overwhelming. It has moderate sillage and as the dry down fades, the jasmine is tenacious until the very end. 

My overall impression of this perfume is that it has a very ethereal quality. Luxuriant and refined. Perfect for wearing with your softest of cashmere sweaters or pashmina shawls. I also think that this would be suitable for a bride to wear on her wedding day. The matching perfumed candle would be appropriate for a wedding gift, Mother's Day or hostess gift.

Visit Au Pays de la Fleurs d'Oranger's website

Thursday, October 23, 2014

Kai by Kai c1999

Kai by Kai: launched in 1999. Created by upscale boutique owner, Gaye Straza Rappaport, who sold exclusively it in her Malibu, California boutique. She later sold her shop, but decided to continue selling her perfume oil which had gained status as a cult favorite among celebrities. Recognizing this fact, she expanded the line to include toiletries in a matching scent so that one could layer the products, making it easy to enjoy the scent all day long.

From the kai website:
""breathe in the beauty of kai, and experience the light and
                 soothing scent of today's most sought-after fragrance."

beauty lies in the simplest and purest of things. kai brings this idea to life by using exotic fragrance and natural essences in our light and intoxicating scent of gardenia wrapped in white exotics. kai captures the irresistible fragrance of the tropics in a full line of fragrance, bath, body and home care products. breathe in the beauty of kai, and experience today's most sought-after fragrance.
"as a child my family would spend summers in hawaii... there’s nothing like the scent of exotic flowers; plumeria, pikake, gardenia and jasmine seemed to grow everywhere. every time i smell one of those flowers i’m instantly back on the islands surrounded by loved ones." ~ kai founder, gaye straza (elle, january 2012)

The company claims that it is paraben, sulfate, phthalate & phosphate free. Also cruelty free, which I am glad to hear about. Plus it is made in the USA from recyclable packaging.


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a lush, white floral fragrance for women with a dominant gardenia note.

  • Top notes: fresh green notes
  • Middle notes: gardenia
  • Base notes:







Sunday, October 12, 2014

Gold Leather by Atelier Cologne c2013

Gold Leather by Atelier Cologne: launched in 2013. It was released as part of the Collection Métal, created by perfumers Sylvie Ganter and Christophe Cervasel. To further enhance the metal theme, the bottles are richly covered in genuine precious metals, making an industry first.

The bottle for Gold Leather is appropriately cloaked in a shimmering gold finish. For those that enjoy the refreshing feeling of splashing cologne onto their skin, the removable spray pump can be removed. The 100ml and 200ml bottles sport a handcrafted leather cap for a luxurious touch.



Ce Soir Ou Jamais by Annick Goutal c1999

Ce Soir Ou Jamais by Annick Goutal: launched in 1999. The name in French means "Tonight or Never", sounds like it could be a plea from a lover. Inspired by the scent of a beautiful rose Annick Goutal found in a priest's garden, it took her a reported fifteen years and over 160 secret ingredients to capture an almost perfect replica.



From Annick Goutal:
"Infinitely secret murmur, pressing and tender proposal of a lingering and discrete perfume which intrigues and arouses desire...  
According to Annick Goutal, it is the perfume of her life, the most accomplished. Interpretation of a rose in a "priest's garden" which she stumbled upon, so much idealized in the extent that it makes one's head spin.  
15 years of work and determination to succeed in revealing the transparency of this delicate, mysterious, almost wild rose."

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an intense floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, lemon, bergamot, pear, rose geranium, peach, lily of the valley, and hibiscus
  • Middle notes: acacia, orange blossom, lavender, apple blossom, beeswax, jasmine, verbena, rose hips, Turkish rose, tea rose, violet, lilac, mimosa and Bulgarian rose
  • Base notes: incense, sandalwood, myrrh, anise, patchouli, leather, musk, oakmoss, ambrette, benzoin and amber


Available in both parfum, eau de parfum, eau de toilette, body cream, shower gel and soap.

I received a sample from a Facebook friend and just sprayed some on the back of my hand. Starting off with a hint of citrus zest and juicy pear, beeswax, rosehip tea, then revealing a heart of fresh cut bouquet of both sweet Turkish and soapy Bulgarian roses and ending in a marriage of spiced wine and a patchouli laden chypre base with a touch of powdery jasmine.

Each time I smell the perfume, it seems a little different and new notes appear. I love this. This is as if Tea Rose by The Perfumer's Workshop and to Jo Malone's Red Roses cologne had a baby, it has a slight vintage feel that I enjoy. Many of the ingredients in the notes listed above I was able to detect through several sampling sessions, as the "secret ingredients" truly are secret and not officially listed anywhere online.

I imagine an elegant woman wearing a slinky black velvet dress arriving at her handsome lover's home on the last night before he leaves on yet another business trip. He opens the door and lets her inside. They immediately embrace and he tastes her violet candy like red lipstick as they passionately kiss. She nuzzles her head into the crook of his neck and smells his musky aftershave spiked with lavender, patchouli and ambergris. He smells her vintage aldehydic chypre perfume that she sprayed on her hair. Her lover presents her with a lush bouquet of long stemmed roses. They stroll into the dining room. She sits down at the table to an empty goblet which is twinkling with the flicker of candlelight.  A small Baccarat crystal vase on the table holds crimson hibiscus blossoms sits atop the freshly laundered linen table cover. A gilt rimmed Limoges porcelain plate holds a succulent baked pear and sliced peaches drizzled with honey and garnished with candied citrus fruit peel. He pours an expensive red wine into her goblet. Her lover presents her with a red envelope, she excitedly opens it, it simply reads "Tonight or Never." She coyly smiles, looks up at him with a mischievous look in her eyes and takes his hand in hers.

Saturday, October 11, 2014

Eau de Camille by Annick Goutal c1983

Eau de Camille by Annick Goutal: launched in 1983. The fragrance was created as a tribute to her cherished daughter.




So what does it smell like? It is classified as a green floral fragrance for women. The perfume evokes the leafy green scent of privet hedges, crisp ivy, freshly cut grass and hints of the delicate floral notes of lilac (seringa) and honeysuckle.
  • Top notes: honeysuckle
  • Middle notes: privet, seringa
  • Base notes: ivy, cut grass


Eau de Camille was discontinued in 2013/2014.



A friend on facebook sent me a sample of this fragrance. I sprayed some onto the back of my hand and inhaled the scent. In my mind, the ivy reminds me of the meandering ivy that grew along the walls of my grandmothers Victorian era farmhouse. I would visit her during the summer when I was a child and slept in an upstairs bedroom that had a window just above where the ivy grew in abundance. Privet hedges lined the walkway to the backdoor. After heavy summer thunderstorms, the air was thick with the scent of electrical ozone, deep, dark privet leaves and crisp ivy. Occasionally, during the early days of June, I would also get a whiff of the first lilacs that grew in her small garden that encircled her gazebo in the backyard. Their scent was both vegetal and sweet and smelled wonderful married with the scent of freshly cut grass. Delicate wild Japanese honeysuckle shrubs dotted the property line that abutted a soybean field in the heart of Maryland's rural farm country. I used to love to walk out there, pluck a flower, pinch off the little green calyx, and suck the addictive nectar from the blossoms, wondering if the bumblebees enjoyed the sweet, honeylike taste as much as I did. The days before cellphones and the internet, when we had to entertain ourselves and play outdoors, this was one of the simple pleasures that I fervently remember. It is a shame that there aren't any honeysuckle bushes near my home now.

Tuesday, September 30, 2014

Sortilege by Le Galion c1937

Sortilege by Le Galion: launched in 1937 by perfumer and Le Galion owner, Paul Vacher. The name means "spell" in French. It's magical blend was composed of over 80 ingredients. It was suggested to be worn for blondes and brunettes, and described it as sumptuous, warm, luxurious, and suitable for evening wear.


Sunday, September 28, 2014

Mix 17 by Platinum J c2011

Mix 17 by Platinum J: launched in 2011.

"Be yourself. Imitation is suicide."

Platinum J fragrances are hand blended using only the finest 100% pure essential oils by natural perfumer Jacqueline Clemens in Lakewood, Ohio. Each perfume is meant to work with the wearer's own skin to become her own signature fragrance.


From Platinum J:
The green goddess, laughingly skipping across the meadow of hope-filled days of endless sunshine, has bewitched us with her sophisticated yet playful mien. Touched with sun and emotion, the fiery presence of geranium and the liveliness of bergamot fills the empty space that once was inside her heart. As this settles, the crisp green goddess gives way to woods that murmur and amber that whispers "...in my sweet embrace all your pains erased."

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental chypre fragrance for men and women.

  • Top notes: bergamot
  • Middle notes: frankincense and geranium
  • Base notes: amber and patchouli


I received a sample directly from Platinum J, and immediately was taken by how earthy this perfume is. It has a beautiful chypre accord and has a rich patchouli note that I find very attractive. This is not your average, everyday hippie head shop patchouli, but more of a spicy, sweeter, more refined version. Not a floral fragrance, just lots of soft woods, incense and spice. This ambery fragrance has a familiar vintage hint to it that makes me think of the 1920s and the wave of orientalism that swept over that decade.

I would imagine this perfume being housed inside of a limited edition heart shaped jet black crystal flacon and a round ball stopper with a long glass dauber, and the front of the bottle would simply say" "Mix 17".



I would wear this perfume on a daily basis, as I love how deftly composed this honeyed fragrance is. It has a seamless blending only rivaled by the very best perfumers in the business.

Speaking of the vintage aspect of this perfume, it reminds me of the time I was at a local country auction where there were a few perfume bottles sitting up on a table. I picked up the Nuit de Noel bottle and found that the stopper was frozen in place. I didn't try to pry it open, but heard some splashing inside so I knew it still contained the treasured formula. Later on, I had bid on the perfume bottles and happily won the lot.

As I was wrapping up the Nuit de Noel bottle, the stopper miraculously came loose and the sticky, brown, syrupy perfume spilled all over my hands. It's scent immediately filled the room and I was only slightly embarrassed when a little boy, there with his grandma spoke up and said, "It smells like bug spray in here gramma." Everyone was looking at me as I was trying so hard to wipe my soiled perfumey hands on some paper towels I grabbed from the ladies room earlier. The auctioneer even stopped his chanting and asked me to take the perfume out to my car...LOL...So, that is what I did.

I came back inside and went to the ladies room to attempt to scrub the old perfume residue from my hands. I scrubbed and I scrubbed for what seemed like an eternity. Finally, I sat back down at my seat to resume bidding on a lot of antique RS Prussia porcelain. For the rest of the auction, all I smelled was the honeyed perfume from Nuit de Noel still clinging furiously to my hands, however, I found the spicy woodsy dry down to be delightful and not at all obtrusive anymore. This is exactly what I smell in Mix 17, the wonderful vintage woods and amber.



Click HERE to purchase Mix 17 by Platinum J

Saturday, September 20, 2014

Clique by Roblé c2014

Clique by Roblé : launched in Spring 2014. Created in collaboration between celebrity chef Roblé  Ali and Frank Voelkl, inspired by two of the chef's own signature creations, a fizzy cocktail and a decadent dessert.



From Chef Roblé 's website:
“For close to a year, Frank Voelkl (Perfumer, Firmenich) and I have been working on our Fragrance Recipe. Finding the perfect balance to incorporate scents from some of my favorite culinary creations required a lot of fine-tuning and multiple trials.”

“It started with the idea of developing an irresistible fragrance recipe that could maintain the freshness of a citrus cocktail on top, with an alluring and sensual dessert base containing notes from one of my favorite signature dessert recipes – French Toast Crunch.”

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a gourmand fragrance for women.
  • Top notes:  Blood orange, Curaçao, Lime, Mexican chili, Salt, Tequila
  • Middle notes: Iris, Jasmine, Tuberose, Violet
  • Base notes:  Challah bread, Cornflakes, Honey, Sugar powder, Salt, Chocolate, Cinnamon

I received a pretty triangular glass flacon from the company and eagerly opened the metallic gold foil box, I couldn't wait to try this so I sprayed the sample on the back of my hand and deeply inhaled the scent. A rush of fizzy citrus explodes around me, so fresh and not the regular everyday orange scent, but the unique scent of the blood oranges and lime. It is as if I sliced open the fruits and squeezed them into a glass of tequila on the rocks, a little boozy, but definitely enticing. Then it smooths seamlessly into a delicious creamy aspect that reminds me of creamsicles, you know the orange and vanilla cream frozen treats on a stick. Then, a sweet scent of sugary marshmallow envelopes me like a warm, thick cashmere blanket, soft and cuddly, but not suffocating. A hint of the powdery violets and irises, a spike of narcotic tuberose and jasmine reveal themselves in a cloud of chocolate and cream.

My husband absolutely adored this one on my skin, where the scent bloomed effortlessly on my warmed skin. this one was a major hit with my friends and family as well. The longevity was pretty good, it lasted at least 8 hours on me as I sprayed it on before bed,  and it was still there, though as wispy traces of honey and citrus, when I woke up the next day. I wore this every day for over a week and never got sick of it. It will be in heavy rotation til it's all gone. Which reminds me, I need to get the scented nail lacquer, body butter and the shower gel too. I wish, wish, wish, that there was a flavored and scented lip balm or gloss for this one. It would be perfect for kissing. Also, a flavored sparkly body shimmer would be nice too, I remember when Jessica Simpson came out with her Dessert Beauty line, it had a kissable body powder that tasted like cotton candy...very good. Hint, Hint.


When I try out a new fragrance, I like to imagine a vignette that the fragrance inspires in my creative mind. Here is a new one...

I close my eyes and imagine I am dining in one of those restaurants where one dines in complete darkness. I don't know what delectable treats the waiter is bringing me, but I sip my water nervously. This is a new experience for me. Usually I am able to see the food before I am about to eat it. I think back to the day before, when my husband suggested we try something new for our anniversary, a fancy restaurant for some cocktails and dessert.

A clunk of glass just hit upon the table and the waiter says "enjoy your cocktail...." My hand snakes around the table, feeling for the cold crystal tumbler, feeling it's icy surface, I bring it up to my face. I sniff nervously, trying to detect what it could be before I take a sip. I immediately smell citrusy scents of zesty oranges and limes. Thinking this could be good, I take a daring sip from on a salted rim. Blood orange and the unmistakeable taste of curacao. Oh, there is some tequila in here, and a spike of pungent chili pepper. This is a very refreshing margarita and tastes only slightly boozy, the citrus keeps this from tasting too alcoholic.

While waiting for our dessert to arrive, my husband remarks about how nice the floral arrangement on the table smells. I tell him, that the powdery irises smell a lot like the ones that my grandmother used to have in her garden. The ones that her mother brought to America from her native Sweden. I also tell him that the iris seems to blend very well with the subtle perfume I am wearing tonight which has notes of narcotic tuberose, jasmine and sweet violet.

I hear the other patrons in the restaurant mumbling over their own meals, but my attention is quickly diverted to the smells of something doughy and spicy wafting my way. Another clunk hits the table, this time, a porcelain plate. I feel around for my fork and find my way to the plate. I take a stab at something soft and slightly spongy. A slice of cake perhaps. I bring the fork close to my mouth and inhale once again, I smell cinnamon and dough. I take a bite, and chew a piece of what I am sure is fresh, slightly salty Challah bread, much like the one I ate years ago when I dated someone around Chanukah season, whose mother baked one for us. I taste honey and dark chocolate, which was probably drizzled just before serving so that it did not become soggy. Crunchy pieces, is that cornflakes? Yes. My memory thinks back to the cornflakes my mother and I would share before she would send me off to school in the morning.

Bite after bite, I taste the sweet bread and even sweeter honey and enjoy the rest of the evening with my husband on our anniversary. Thinking how funny it is when our sense of sight is deprived of us, our sense of smell and taste are magnified. This was a unique experience for my husband and I. Giving him a kiss on the cheek, I thank him for giving me 7 years of wedded bliss and for the interesting evening as we put on our coats and are lead from the darkened restaurant and to our waiting car.


I think they should make a tasty lip balm as well :)


Friday, September 19, 2014

Sweet William by Ineke c2011

Sweet William by Ineke: launched in 2011 as part of the Floral Curiosities Collection that was originally offered exclusively through Anthropologie. Created by the classically trained Ineke Ruhland, who was inspired to compose these original fragrances based on the flowers growing in her garden.




So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy woody fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: peach schnapps, cinnamon, clove
  • Middle notes: sweet william, sandalwood, cedarwood
  • Base notes: patchouli, bourbon vanilla

I received a sample directly from Ineke and was pleasantly surprised to see it arrive inside of a simulated book coffret alongside four other scents from the Floral Curiosities collection. The little "book" has a pocket on the inside that resembles a library card pocket. Tucked inside the pocket are library cards that look like they were repurposed from an old card catalog. On each card is a pretty illustration on one side and the description of each perfume and the flower that inspired its creation on the reverse. Each sample vial is a generous 2.5ml spray that holds enough fragrance so that the perfume may be worn a few times so that you can get acquainted with the scent. I think the whole presentation is just adorable and worthy of a gift to a treasured friend or cherished relative.

Now since my curiosity was piqued, I sprayed the Sweet William perfume on the back of my hand and my initial impression was "WOW". I close my eyes and think of a delicious dessert to be served on a cool early autumn day like today. Succulent baked peaches, the last from the harvest, expertly sliced and arranged in a swirl over a creamy bourbon vanilla custard, generously drizzled with a decadent schnapps glaze and sprinkled with the pungent spices of cinnamon and cloves. An antique crystal bowl holds a potpourri of cedar and sandalwood chips mixed in with dried sweet william and patchouli leaves. The heat of the fat pillar candles on the table brings a gentle heat which intensifies the scent of the dried foliage and the delectable dessert.

After an hour, the perfume is still strong and spicy with a beautiful woodsy vanilla drydown. I think it would smell very nice on a man as well as it is not too feminine as this is not a floral style fragrance. My husband said that it smelled very good, like the cinnamon that I sprinkle on his toast, which he loves to have with his morning coffee. The marriage of these spices and woods remind me of Jungle L'Elephant by Kenzo, another fragrance that I enjoy wearing in the cooler months.


Click HERE to purchase Sweet William 0.5 oz Eau de Parfum
Click HERE to purchase Sweet William 2.5 oz Eau de Parfum
Click HERE to purchase The Floral Curiosities Collection Scent Library Sampler Set





Thursday, September 18, 2014

Traversee du Bosphore by L`Artisan c2010

Traversee du Bosphore by L'Artisan Parfumeur: launched in 2010. Created by Bertrand Duchaufour who drew his inspiration from his journey to Istanbul. The Ottoman delicacy, Turkish delight plays a big part in the composition which helps makes this a beautiful fruity floral perfume with sugary gourmand notes.


Amouage Gold by Amouage c1983

Amouage Gold for Women by Amouage: launched in 1983. Created by Guy Robert, it was the first fragrance issued by the house of Amouage and is a perennial classic among its devotees.


Saturday, September 6, 2014

LURK Natural Perfumes

LURK is a company founded by SoHo New York perfumer Anne Sanford. Anne creates her line of hand blended natural perfumes using only the finest, pure essential oils expertly blended into a base of organic jojoba oil, ensuring that the perfume oils have long lasting capabilities on the skin.  These high quality perfume oils are created without alcohol, chemical preservatives, stabilizers or additives, which mean that they are ideal for applying directly to your skin without the worry of irritation or toxic ingredients found in many modern perfumes. Each perfume is presented in a little glass vial which is perfect for travel.

Le Petit Fou - Le Soft Perfume

Le Petit Fou, manufacturers of high quality solid perfume sticks, have presented several alcohol free perfumes for you enjoyment.

Using only naturally plant derived colorants and ingredients, these nearly edible "paste" perfumes combine the best of cosmetic innovation and the highest standards of expertise while providing the European cosmetology guarantee.

Plum by Mary Greenwell c2010

Plum by Mary Greenwell: launched in 2010, created by celebrity make up artist Mary Greenwell in collaboration with perfumer Francois Robert.


Lemon by Mary Greenwell c2013

Lemon by Mary Greenwell: launched in 2013, created by celebrity make up artist Mary Greenwell in collaboration with perfumer Francois Robert. It was inspired by Mary's own memories of her Mediterranean vacations.

From Harrod's:
This stunning fragrance is a fresh citrus floral with a soft chypre dry down. The citrus notes are specially designed to last a long time, not just to disappear after the first spritz. The soft chypre accord on the dry down gives an elegance and richness that really has to be experienced to be believed.

So what does it smell like? It is a fresh citrus, floral chypre fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: lemon, lime, mandarin, bergamot and bitter orange
  • Heart notes: narcissus absolute, clary sage, hyacinth, jasmine and lily of the valley
  • Base notes: precious woods, oak moss, patchouli, tonka and amber

Available in:
  • 50 ml Eau de Parfum
  • 100 ml Eau de Parfum
  • 7.5 ml purse spray